How Did Diesel Become Milan’s Hottest, Sweatiest Fashion House?

He shows me a couple of prince-of-wales suits that look like they’ve been put through a thresher. Martens is a master of illusion—he and Y/Project can take credit for sparking fashion’s current craze for trompe l’oeil—and these tailored rigs are actually made of double-loomed cotton that was hooked and pulled until the threads erupted in artful tatters. Only then was it printed with the plaid pattern. I ask him about this apparent left turn toward formality, and Martens laughs: “The idea is that even in your more tailored fabrics or materials, you can actually fall on the ground, be drunk, and it doesn’t matter, you don’t have to steam it or whatever.” But of course. Martens moves on to a clingy jersey top. “There’s very stiff interlining, but not at the bust, so that your boobs can hang out,” he says, giggling at his own titillating creation. “It’s not for me, but we can make little leggings if you want.”

Before I can, uh, place my personal order, an assistant brings Martens a long denim cossack with a fitted neckline and floor-grazing hem. “Ah! It’s the biker priest,” he crows. “This is quite interesting,” he says, getting serious. When he joined Diesel, Martens explains, the brand only used 3% recycled or regenerated cotton. “Now it’s 57%,” he says, “which I’m very proud of, because it was intensive work.” Fear not—the demure cloak, which is 100% recycled, is not a statement about chastity and propriety. Rather, says Martens, “We are preaching about sustainability.” The innovative eco-fabric will hit stores in more wearable forms, sitting alongside downtown-ubiquitous Martens designs like peekaboo D-logo tank tops and glossy leather handbags.

Several people are hovering near Martens—he is running late for his next appointment. Before he scampers off the livestream, I ask him about the Y/Project news. Why did he leave? Martens answers carefully: “There’s moments in life when you have to make a decision. I needed to shake things up a bit.” Though Y/Project has seemingly endless critical goodwill, the brand was struggling with cash flow issues which forced Martens to cancel a planned runway show in March. And then in June, Y/Project founder and president Gilles Elelouf passed away. “We had a very difficult year,” Martens says. “It was a lot of change, and it felt like it was a moment for something new and to make place for something fresh.”

As for the livestream? According to Martens, this new fashion week feature is here to stay. “I mean, we have a lot of engagement on it,” he says, “but we’re going to keep on doing it because I think it’s kind of fun. It’s just fun to be honest and open.”

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